Everything’s Golden
Back in August when the figs were plump and the goldenrod was, well, golden. I had a vision for writing a recipe for a delicious fig and goldenrod tart…It didn’t happen. Weeks later, I am still seeing sprigs of goldenrod flourish, (although much less so), and since these flecks of yellow are still calling to me, I’ve traded my fig dreams in for quince ones, and have concocted a seasonably appropriate cake with a touch of goldenrod, the underused quince and a lot more, of another wonderful herb, spicebush.
Let’s talk about the ingredients…
Solidago caesia, (on the left) is a late bloomer and one of the lesser known varieties in the genus, but since all goldenrods can be used interchangeably, I went with what I could find!
Goldenrods mostly bloom in August and September and Solidago canadensis is the version most herbalists source for medicine making. Traditionally the herb has been used for reducing the effects of seasonal allergies and improving kidney and bladder health, as well as supporting digestion, and when used topically, relaxing tight muscles..
I've made recipes with Solidago canadensis before, and love the honeyed sweetness and resinous spice. The caesia has more bitter notes than the canadensis, so it's only used sparingly in the cake.
Spicebush, Lindera benzoin, (on the right), is a native tree. Its twigs, leaves and especially the berries are rich with cinnamon and citrus notes that uplift the senses, and surprise the palette. It's often compared to allspice, and its always a crowd pleaser when students get to discover it on a herb walk. Medicinally, spicebush bark and berries were traditionally used by Native Americans to reduce fevers and rheumatic pain. I was also taught, that Native Americans would make a tea with the leaves and twigs to welcome guests into their homes. Like goldenrod, the aromatic flavors support healthy digestion too. I gathered the leaves for this recipe, and picked both the green and yellow ones!
Quince is one of those fruits that you might pass by without picking up, because you're not sure what to do with it. You can't eat it like an apple or a pear, but a gentle poach in some wine and spices, and you'll be longing for the next time you get to eat some!
As a medicinal food, quince has a lot going for it, its rich in pectin and fiber, and has been used to alleviate diarrhea, acid reflux and inflammatory bowel disease. The seeds contain mucilage, and when soaked in water, offer a slippery drink to ease constipation.
I poached the quince with spicebush leaves, and they made friends easily!
Quince,Goldenrod and Spicebush Cake
The cake is gluten free and can be vegan with a few tweaks. It's rich and delicious...and such a delicate nod to Autumn's colors, which in case you haven't noticed, are completely breathtaking this fall...
The crumb part of the recipe is inspired by Posie Brien's Flourless Almond and Coconut Cake. I've added my own spin, but you can find the original here.
Ingredients:
3/4 cup butter
3/4 cup raw honey
3 eggs
1/2 cup of coconut milk
1 1/2 cups of almond meal
1/2 cup of coconut flour
2 teaspoon of dried & powdered spicebush leaves, or 1/2
teaspoon of allspice
1 teaspoon of fresh dried and ground goldenrod flowers
2 teaspoons of baking powder
Pinch of salt
1 whole quince, (peeled and cored & sprinkled with lemon juice)
A small handful of fresh spicebush leaves, or 2 teaspoons of ground cinnamon
3/4 teaspoon of almond extract
2 teaspoons dried and ground wild harvested goldenrod flowers only.
1/3 cup of white/rose, or 2 tbl lemon juice, + 3 tbl water
1-2 additional tsp of honey
Method
Preheat the oven to 350°.
Slice the quince into 1/4" segments, and add to a pan with the wine or lemon/water mix, and the fresh spice bush leaves. Add 1-2 tsp of honey, and cover the pot with a lid. Heat the pan until the wine starts to simmer, then, lower the light, replace the lid, and continue to simmer the quince until the pieces are spoonable and soft, but still holding together, (20 minutes). If there's any syrup left, you can allow it to reduce until it's thickened and pour on top of the cake before serving.
Line a 9" spring form cake tin with parchment paper and place the cooked quince slices on the bottom of the pan. Hold the tin to the side.
Cream the butter and honey together and blend in the eggs and almond essence. Mix the coconut, and almond flours, ground goldenrod, and dried spicebush leaves/or cinnamon together with the baking powder and salt.
Combine the dried ingredients with the egg mix, and pour the batter on top of the quince slices. Smooth out the top of the batter and place in the oven for 35-40 minutes.
Take the cake out the oven and test to see if it is cooked by poking a skewer or knife into the center. If the skewer comes out clean, the cake is ready. Allow it to cool for a few minutes and then carefully remove the tin, using a plate to flip the cake, so that the quince slices are on top.
I like to drizzle some honey or leftover poaching syrup on top of the cake, and sprinkle a few decorative goldenrod flowers before serving.